Riding a motorbike is easily one of my favorite ways to spend a day. Getting to do it in a country as spectacular and diverse as Vietnam only makes the experience better. Here’s a recent trip of mine- a part of Northern Vietnam by motorbike.
For those planning a similar trip, my number one piece of advice is to take all the online itineraries very loosely. Don’t plan ahead too much. Instead, get a rough idea of the places you want to visit and then adjust on the go.
Most travelers in the North of Vietnam seem to go for the Ha Giang Loop. While there is no denying that this is one of the most spectacular areas of Vietnam, I wanted to go for a less touristy experience.
While checking out Google Maps, I spotted twisty roads west of Hanoi and created a rough itinerary. Once I had a rough idea of where to go, it was time to hit the road.
Vietnam Motorbike Trip Itinerary From Hanoi
Here’s my itinerary for a 5-day trip from Hanoi, ideal to discover the lesser-known part of Vietnam by motorbike.
Day 1- Hanoi to Hòa Bình– 100 kilometers
I started in the capital of Vietnam. The weather in late January was pretty awful- the temperature was way colder than I expected, it rained most days, and none of the hotels I stayed at had proper heating. The constant gloomy weather reminded me of Warsaw, a dreadful climate I was trying to escape. I couldn’t wait to get out of the city.
I picked up a Honda XR from this shop, not too far from the Old Quarter. The Honda XR is arguably the best bike to get in the country- it’s a dual sport that’s surprisingly capable off-road, plus its 150cc motor shares many components with the mopeds. So if you break down in a remote village, the local repair shop will know their way around the bike. Unlike less popular models that may require more knowledgeable mechanics or parts that are harder to find. You won’t be breaking any speed records on this tiny thing, though.
I left the busy streets of Hanoi behind and headed west towards Hòa Bình. I was eager to get off the main roads as soon as possible- lots of trucks, minivans, and cars that were quicker than the little 150cc XR. Riding through dirty expressways is pretty boring, especially if it’s just passing through industrial areas.
I discovered that roads with three digits in the name (eg. DT439) are more rural than the ones with shorter names (eg. DT74). This is very similar to the naming system in Thailand and is extremely helpful when planning routes for traveling around Vietnam by motorbike.
The road finally became interesting past the small village of Tân Vinh. I entered Hòa Bình via DT128 which was being repaved at the time. A quick photo break and I made my way down the valley and into town.
Mường Retreat- Night 1
I spent the night at a local homestay run by the Mường people- an ethnic group native to this part of Vietnam. In fact, with nearly 1.5 million people, the Mường are the third most populous ethnic minority in the country.
The retreat is located within the Mường Ethnographic Museum. It’s not the biggest nor the most impressive, but it makes for a cool spot to explore in the evening. I received a room upstairs, right above the museum.
The friendly ladies running the museum briefly showed me around. Afterward, it was time for dinner. I was the only guest here that night. Once the staff packed up in the evening I had the entire place to myself!
Day 2- Hòa Bình, Mai Châu, Pù Luông Valley– 130 kilometers
Day two of this motorcycle adventure was off to a gloomy start yet again. I followed the DT435 and then turned into DT435B. There’s a cool viewpoint overlooking Hoa Binh Lake, certainly worth the 10-minute detour.
I continued through local village roads and eventually ended up on the QL6 heading towards Mai Châu. I soon arrived on one of the most exciting roads of the trip- the Thung Khe Pass.
Thung Khe Pass
This is the major road that connects Mai Châu and Hanoi. Despite it being relatively busy, it’s a wide twisty highway that’s a joy to ride.
This road is also where I found out I was way too heavy for the 150cc Honda XR. The engine was working overtime to get me up the steep mountain, squeezing out every single bit of power from its monstrous 11.6hp engine. I have accidentally abused quite a few XRs traveling in Vietnam by motorbike over the past two years.
I stopped at a rest stop with a fantastic viewpoint that opened up to the Mai Châu valley. A beautiful rice field surrounded by tall mountains is the postcard-like scene you’d expect from this part of Vietnam.
After riding down the Thung Khe Pass into the valley, I turned left into QL15. This is the northwest part of the Pù Luông Loop- a set of roads that ideally loops around the scenic valleys in the area. Think of the Ha Giang Loop, but slightly less spectacular and without the hordes of tourists.
Pù Luông Loop- QL15 & QL15C
I continued south along the QL15, leaving behind Mai Châu and its rice fields. The road briefly followed the Song Ma River which provided some more pretty backdrops. Then, it was time to go up the twisty QL15C that leads to the Pù Luông valley.
The QL15C cuts through lush greenery, twisting around valleys and atop mountains. It is a fantastic ride with plenty of scenic spots to stop and take in the views. If I were to stop at every spot worth photographing, I’d probably still be somewhere in the Pù Luông valley.
Hint: There’s a shortcut across the valley that Google Maps doesn’t show as an accessible road. Turn left from the QL15C opposite the Central Hills Pù Luông Resort (if you’re coming from the north side). It’s pretty steep but will save you nearly half an hour if you were to pass through làng Tôm.
Pù Luông Holiday- Nights 2, 3, 4
The Pù Luông Holiday homestay was the ideal spot to spend the night after a whole day of riding. I arrived shortly before sunset and was greeted by Ta, the owner of the place.
Ta showed me to my gorgeous wooden bungalow, nested at the very edge of the jungle. The room featured two beds and a private bathroom with a tall window looking out into the forest. There’s also a pool in the middle of the homestay, and despite it being early February, it was hot enough to go for a dip. I liked this place so much that I ended up extending my stay to 3 nights.
The Pù Luông Holiday homestay features stable and relatively quick wifi, in case you need to get any work done. Be sure to bring cash, as there aren’t many ATMs around. Daily meals are available on request, and I highly recommend them!
A host can make or break a homestay. In the case of Pù Luông Holiday, the host is the key highlight! Ta is extremely chatty and proactive, providing plenty of recommendations for things to do, local tours, and so on.
After one too many glasses of rice wine over dinner, it was time to call it a night. Don’t expect any nightlife scene beyond the homestay here, duh.
Days 3 & 4- Pù Luông Valley – 130 kilometers
The next two days were all about exploring the best of what the Pù Luông Valley has to offer. One of the best things about traveling in Vietnam by motorbike is you never really know what to expect, and this was the case.
You could do the loop in one day, but I’d recommend dedicating two if you want to stop at most attractions and photo spots. And there are plenty.
Dead-end Trails
My first ride of the day started on a tiny paved road just north of Chòm Lăn, a little village in the valley. With every additional meter of elevation, the road got more remote, and soon turned into a dirt path. I thought it would connect to another trail and I’d be able to cross into the next valley, but that was not the case. At one point, the trail just got off and I had to head back the same way.
If you’re looking for a small off-road challenge while exploring Vietnam by motorbike, this could be a fun addition. Otherwise, it is best to skip it or turn around once the pavement ends.
Pù Luông Valley- Lũng Vân
There are essentially two ways to get in and out of the valley- the QL15C on the west side (that I rode from Mai Chau) and a local road that goes up from the northeast up to the village of Lũng Vân. The latter is arguably more spectacular.
The road heading northeast out of the valley is also challenging. It’s a pretty steep 18% grade that climbs up a tall mountain, opening up to truly breathtaking views. It was under construction at the time of my visit, which added in some off-road sections. This is not the toughest ride in Vietnam by any means, but not recommended for beginners either. It is all paved, except for the parts that are under construction.
The peak is at around 1700m, and once you pass it the scenery changes dramatically. The next part of the ride takes you through Lũng Vân- the cloud valley. It’s a spot beloved by local săn mây (cloud hunting) enthusiasts. They come here to admire the clouds. Legend has it that the more clouds you see, the more nhân phẩm (moral character) you have. I’m sure I have plenty as I never saw the sun in this valley.
Lũng Vân is also the place where the road becomes less hardcore. The 18% grade is no more, and the cliffs are replaced by lush rice fields and quaint forests- a true epitome of exploring Vietnam by motorbike. The road is still fun and twisty, but much less challenging. The quality of the pavement gets significantly worse around here, too.
Once you’re in the Lũng Vân village, you can either turn left and continue the loop clockwise via DT432 (that’s what I did), or right towards DT440 to do it anti-clockwise.
DT432A & DT432B- Lũng Vân to Thung Khe
This leg of the trip is pretty cool, too. The chicane-filled road will climb up and down again, winding around the valleys. There are a couple of small villages with local shops and restaurants along the way, as well as cafes. Some of them overlook the mountains, so choose wisely to find the best spot.
After around 45 minutes, the DT432 merges into the Thung Khe Pass. I turned right onto QL6 to take in the views in better weather. I turned right into DT440 roughly 20 minutes later to loop back into Pù Luông Valley.
DT 440- Xóm Lô to Lũng Vân
This is the final “main road” into the Pù Luông Valley. DT440 climbs back into the mountains and has even more twists and turns that are an absolute joy to ride on.
Don’t make the same mistake I did- I missed the Thác Thung waterfalls. These gorgeous falls are only a short detour from the main road- turn left directly next to the gas station in Nà Khao and follow the small road for a few minutes. The falls are very clean and only a short hike away, close to the village of Xóm Hưng.
After passing Lũng Vân, I made my way back into the Pù Luông Valley via the same road. Don’t miss the Hieu Falls, another set of waterfalls. This one is directly in Pù Luông.
Day 5- Pù Luông Valley-Hanoi – 170 kilometers
For the way back to Hanoi, I decided to ride up through the impressive Lũng Vân valley once again. This time, I turned right before Na Khao to go through another rural valley- an unnamed paved road that eventually connects to the QL12B.
Unnamed Road- Na Khao to Vụ Bản
This small road is perhaps the quietest on the entire trip. It starts off right before the village of Na Khao and cuts across a lush valley all the way to Vụ Bản, where it merges with the QL12B.
This road goes through the typical, semi-remote countryside you’d expect when exploring Northern Vietnam by motorbike. Expect green forests, plantations, and loads of fun curves. There are also some trails throughout the valley where you can hop off the pavement, but most of the ones I tried were dead ends.
Look out for the occasional trucks- especially around the bamboo plantations and farms.
Once I arrived in Vụ Bản, I hopped on the west-bound QL12B just for a few minutes. This is a busy, uneventful road, but you can hop off in Xuất Hóa to go through another valley on the way back to Hanoi. This one is pretty small, but much more pleasant to ride than the primary roads.
After a couple of kilometers through villages, the road becomes twisty and once again- this is the last fun piece of road on the way to Hanoi. The “fun” part lasts around 15-20 minutes- going across a smaller valley one last time. Once past it, you’ll end up in the built-up areas. From there on, it’s a pretty boring ride all the way back to Hanoi.